It’s been a while since I setup this site and honestly I don’t feel it even reached its potential of being a platform of my representation. Last time when this Pulse DTP20 thread been posted up I thought I can finish it later after heavy use test and just never came back to it. Not because I forgot about it it’s just I enjoyed using my renewed Pulse DTP20 device and didn’t really bother finishing the report until one reader mail poped up (while cleaning my spam mails) asking how this battery swap procedure can be done, and it’s from Norway! Just simply glad that there are folks out there like me using the old techs and simply don’t want it to die. Calling Pulse DTP20 and the software old is just ignorant the fact that Pulse’s been introduced 5,6 years ago and the software is a rebranded MonacoProfiler. Comparing to SpectroScan (yes I’ve seen folks here in Japan still using it as industrial standard), I love Pulse’s mobility and compactness, compared to EyeOne Pro, I love Pulse bundled software ColorElite’s frugal 729 patches target yet still outbeat PM5′s perceptual rendering quality, even better than MonacoProfiler in some aspects: 4 optional light temperature for different light conditions and limitless times of average measurements for bringing more accurate results. There is a reason why folks still using it, just that good people trying bring it back to life instead of dumping it in the bin. Then I thought it might be helpful to share my experience to those who are still figuring, it doesn’t need rocket science to get it done, just take a deep breath and pray to the Tech God for abit of luck. Now let’s go through all the steps.
Those who used Pulse or trying their luck out on eBay-used item know there are two major problems of this device. One is the lens cloud, the other is calibration failure. I actually came across both problems since the first Pulse DTP20 I bought on Yahoo auction, it was the whole deal including all accessories and softwares, manuals, Monaco target, original box etc. You would be glad to get the whole package rather than the just the device and cable, right? Here is the thing to watch out. There is a grey/black rubber plate (below) : 
for Pulse DTP20 sitting in and many says its degradation caused device lens to cloud even gather mold. This 1st Pulse worked well and passed the calibration. But the geek inside of my kept saying how it can be ʻcalibratedʼ if the lens is smudged at the first place? Got my 2nd Pulse from eBay, lucky me it was a clean unit but doesn’t calibrate correctly. When using ColorElite, user have to pass the calibration to generate icc profiles, X-Rite freeware ColorPort doesn’t stop you even if calibration error sound beeped, it just bypasses the device and says calibration successful. Huhmm, very suspicious. For fully using the excellent ColorElite I have to own a flawless device first. That was why I decided to take the risk and give it a surgery.
Straightforward here is how Pulse DTP20 looks like when disassembled. Notice the battery is glued on by a piece of double-side tape(the white rectangle at the lower right-hand side). 
One single driver can do the job. What needs to be careful is how to organize those parts and assemble them in the right order. I used masking tape to glue sets of screws and the rubber slider on my cutting mat, cover the whole thing to prevent contact with dust in the air. Even so do prepare a can of ReAir or alternative for the inner parts e.g. lens glass, UV filter etc. Turn the sensor and let its lens side face up. There are 6 screws need to be removed, two in the middle, two at each corner of the lens ring, one hidden behind the serial seal and one behind the upper plastic slider. Knowing Pulse DTP20 is discontinued removing the serial seal isn’t a big deal for me, however the plastic slider is different. In my experience the slider is crucial for successful smooth reading, I replaced it with aluminum tape but it failed at the 1st row of reading. Slider’s reverse side is some sorta adhesive tape so don’t worry if you messed it up when pealing, just cut a piece of double-side tape the same size as the slider and glue it back on when all done. After pealing the slider off, take out the screw underneath (below)
After taking all the screws out, turn the sensor back(lens side facing down) and let it sit on table, hold the lower part of its plastic body while slowly lifting the upper part-the one with round Pulse button-up, now I can see what’s inside Pulse DTP20.
There are two circuit boards attached together, one connected to battery the other got lens and LED flash lights imbedded. Take a close look at the lens. 
See those gold screws around the lens? I’ve never seen them elsewhere (maybe they are largely used inside optical equipment, just that I’m not familiar), at first I thought I need to take those tiny screws out in order to get behind the glass-Remember? I need to clean the lens & change the battery-soon I found out it just took a ACW rotate to open the lens ring. By doing that you can get behind the glass, take the purple UV filter out or even get access to the LED flash lights! For those who just want to change battery, don’t open the lens ring! Once those LED flash lights fall out you would never know how to put them back again. For reference’s sake here is a shot of the UV filter (below). 
I unplugged the battery and then took it out, it looks like this. (below) 
When I noticed it’s ʻMade in Japanʼ I saw the shinning light through thick clouds from the gloomy sky, one of my mates runs a electronics company, I asked him for the same stock or compatibles and he brought me some used ones at weekends for test. He also gave me advice on room lightings and helped me setting up the right ceiling light. We had some fun the whole afternoon plug in-and-out, heard the failure sound beeped times after times until it sounded like Zing! That is a Sanyo Ni-MH battery. He said it’s the same thing with the original X-Rite one and told me this kind of Ni-MH batteries are largely used on devices such as telephone, camera and optical equipment. Below is the telephone of my studio, the battery is just identical to Pulse DTP20′s. Front
Back
So here is the conclusion : for those who want to give it a shot changing the battery to calibrate Pulse DTP20 correctly, go and ask your local electronic store for compatible batteries. My suggestion is to go for Ni-MH battery made from Sanyo or Hitachi-would be a plus if it’s ʻMade in Japanʼ,quality guaranteed,YKWIM-and do it at home with some patience. Choose a warm, dry day and remember to clean the dust before seal everything back. If you are lucky your reborn Pulse DTP20 can still serve for 2 more years at careful use. That is it, feel free to drop me a line and I will try to answer anything within my limited knowledge. Next post will be workflow related post including combined experience of NEC MultiSync PA241, Epson Stylus Photo R3000 and Nokia N8. I’ll squeeze some time during my studio’s reform and get it done. Have fun.
